Iceland
Hornstrandir, a remote and rugged nature reserve in the Westfjords of Iceland, is a destination for those who seek the thrill of exploring untouched landscapes. This wild peninsula is one of the last places on Earth where you can hike in total solitude, free from the distractions of modern life. With no roads, no cell phone reception, and often no other people, Hornstrandir offers an experience that is as challenging as it is rewarding. For those who are willing to put in the effort, this isolated corner of Iceland provides a profound connection with nature that few places can match.
Hornstrandir is not your typical tourist destination. It’s a place where nature remains untamed and where human presence is minimal. This makes it an ideal location for those seeking adventure and solitude. The landscape is dramatic, with towering cliffs, deep fjords, and verdant valleys, all teeming with wildlife. Arctic foxes, seabirds, and seals are just some of the creatures you might encounter on your journey. But the real allure of Hornstrandir lies in its remoteness—this is a place where you can truly disconnect from the modern world and immerse yourself in nature.
Visiting Hornstrandir requires careful planning. Unlike more accessible parts of Iceland, getting to Hornstrandir is an adventure in itself. The only way to reach the reserve is by ferry from the towns of Ísafjörður or Bolungarvík or by undertaking a multi-day hike from the mainland of the Westfjords. Once you arrive, there are no roads or vehicles—hiking is your only mode of transportation.
Several ferry companies operate boat transfers to Hornstrandir, typically from early June to early September. These include:
Booking your ferry in advance is essential. The boats can fill up quickly, especially during peak season, and they may not run at all if there aren’t enough passengers. It’s also important to be flexible with your travel dates, as the weather can be unpredictable, and ferries may be delayed or canceled due to rough seas.
Hiking in Hornstrandir is a true wilderness experience. The trails are often rugged and unmarked, and the weather can be extreme, even in summer. This is not a place for casual hikers; it’s for those who are prepared to face the elements and navigate challenging terrain. However, the effort is well worth it. Hornstrandir offers some of the most spectacular hiking opportunities in Iceland, with routes that take you through remote valleys, along dramatic coastlines, and up to panoramic viewpoints.
One of the most popular hikes is from Hesteyri to Hornvik. This route takes you through lush, green valleys, over mountain ridges with breathtaking views, and past abandoned settlements that tell the story of Hornstrandir’s history. The hike can be done in a day, but many choose to extend it over several days, camping along the way to fully immerse themselves in the landscape.
The best time to visit Hornstrandir for hiking is from mid-July to the end of August. During this period, the snow has mostly melted, the trails are more accessible, and the weather is at its mildest. However, even during these months, the weather can change rapidly, so it’s crucial to be prepared for all conditions. The Icelandic Meteorological Office provides the most reliable weather forecasts, but even these can be unpredictable.
If you’re planning a trip, it’s advisable to have a flexible schedule. Waiting for a stable weather window can make the difference between a challenging but enjoyable hike and a potentially dangerous one. In some cases, it might be necessary to postpone or even cancel your plans if the weather turns particularly bad.
Accommodation options in Hornstrandir are limited to camping and a few very basic guesthouses. There are 14 designated campsites throughout the reserve, each offering different levels of facilities. Some campsites, like the one at Hornvík Höfn, are equipped with running water, dry toilets, and even emergency shelter. The largest and best-equipped campsite is in Hornvík, which also has flush toilets, sinks, and a ranger’s cabin.
For those who prefer a bit more comfort, there are three simple guesthouses in Hornstrandir:
These guesthouses are very popular and often fully booked for the summer months, so it’s essential to reserve your spot well in advance.
In the remote wilderness of Hornstrandir, where venturing off marked trails and camping outside designated areas is prohibited, a network of campsites offers refuge for adventurous souls seeking to immerse themselves in Iceland's untamed beauty. Here's a comprehensive list of campsites in Hornstrandir:
1. Saból in Adalvik - Coordinates: 66°20'31.0"N 23°05'10.5"W
2. Látrar in Adalvík ϟ - Coordinates: 66°23'32.0"N 23°01'49.6"W
3. Atlastadir in Fljótavik ϟ - Coordinates: 66°27'16.8"N 22°55'42.0"W
4. Hornbjargsviti Lighthouse hut and campsite - Coordinates: 66.410970, -22.380223
5. Hlöduvik ϟ - Coordinates: 66°24'51.4"N 22°40'12.0"W
6. Höfn in Hornvík campsite ϟ - Coordinates: 66°25'38.7"N 22°29'26.0"W
7. Hornsá in Hornvik - Coordinates: 66°26'31.4"N 22°26'06.5"W
8. Bjarnanes - Coordinates: 66°23'28.7"N 22°21'10.9”W
9. Smidjuvik - Coordinates: 66°21'46.3"N 22°16'41.4"W
10. Furufjördur ϟ - Coordinates: 66°16'12.6"N 22°14'11.2"W
11. Hrafnfjördur ϟ- Coordinates: 66°16'04.5"N 22°21'45.2"W
12. Bot Veidileysufjardar - Coordinates: 66°21'52.3"N 22°37'23.7"W
13. Steinólfsstaöir in Veidileysufiröi - Coordinates: 66°21'42.8"N 22°39'03.1"W
14. Bolungarvík - Coordinates: 66°18'05.6"N 22°13'13.5"W
15. Hesteyri - Coordinates: 66°19'53.0"N 22°52'34.5"W
ϟ - includes emergency shelter
Detailed descriptions of each campsite can be found on our campsite list, here. Each campsite offers a unique glimpse into the wild heart of Hornstrandir, inviting travelers to connect with nature and forge unforgettable memories amidst Iceland's rugged landscapes. Hornstradir map here.
If the idea of navigating Hornstrandir’s wilderness on your own seems intimidating, consider joining a guided tour. Companies like Borea Adventures and West Tours offer guided trips that take care of all the logistics, allowing you to focus on enjoying the experience. These tours are led by experienced guides who know the area well and can provide valuable insights into the region’s natural and cultural history.
The main downside of a guided tour is that you might not have as much freedom to explore at your own pace, and you’ll be sharing the experience with others. However, for those who are new to wilderness hiking or who prefer the safety and convenience of a guided experience, this can be an excellent option.
The weather in Hornstrandir is one of the biggest challenges for visitors. It can change rapidly, and conditions can be extreme. On a good day, you might enjoy clear skies and mild temperatures, but on a bad day, you could face gale-force winds, driving rain, and dense fog.
It’s essential to be prepared for all weather conditions. Bring plenty of warm, waterproof clothing, even in summer, and be ready to adjust your plans if the weather turns. Ideally, you should monitor the weather forecast closely in the days leading up to your trip and be prepared to delay or reschedule if necessary.
Plan Ahead: Careful planning is crucial for a successful trip to Hornstrandir. Ensure that you have all necessary permits, ferry bookings, and supplies well in advance. Given the remote nature of Hornstrandir, it’s also essential to submit your travel plan to the Icelandic Safe Travel website and share it with all ferry companies you'll be using. Upon arrival, consult your plan with the local information center in Hornvik or Hesteyri, a ranger if available, and possibly with the ferry company.
Pack Smart: Hornstrandir's rugged terrain and unpredictable weather demand thorough preparation. Bring all the necessary gear, including a sturdy tent, a reliable sleeping bag, and sufficient food supplies, as there are no shops or facilities in the area. Practice hiking with a heavy backpack (20kg / 44lbs) and pitching your tent in challenging conditions, such as rain and wind, to ensure you’re fully prepared. Additionally, trails can often become swampy and boggy, so equip yourself with appropriate gear to handle these conditions.
Respect the Environment: As a protected area, Hornstrandir requires visitors to adhere to Leave No Trace principles. Camp only in designated areas, take all your waste with you, and avoid disturbing the wildlife. Hornstrandir is one of the last places on earth where you can hike in untouched nature, so it’s crucial to preserve its pristine condition.
Share your travel plan: Share your plan on the Icelandic Safe Travel website before your visit, and ensure you also provide it to all the ferry companies you’ll be using.
Monitor the Weather: Weather in Hornstrandir can be extreme and change rapidly, making it your greatest ally or your worst enemy. Always check the safetravel.is and the local weather forecast before setting out. Be aware that over mountain passes, you might get a limited cell and internet signal, so use it to check the latest weather updates.
Navigate Wisely: If there’s a visible path, follow it; if not, rely on cairns, GPS, a compass, and maps. Tides can also impact your route, especially when crossing beaches, so check tidal times beforehand. Always inform your ferry company of any changes to your plans, as they may adjust accordingly, but remember that the ferry will not wait for you. It’s better to arrive well in advance.
Embrace the Solitude: Hornstrandir offers profound solitude, where you might not see another person for days. Be prepared for self-reliance and isolation, and fully embrace the opportunity to disconnect from the world and immerse yourself in nature.
Stick to Main Trails: If you lack previous experience in Hornstrandir, it’s safest to stick to the main hiking trails. Some secondary trails can be extremely dangerous, especially in adverse weather conditions. Letting the boat company know of any changes in your plans is also wise—an SMS might get through even in areas with limited cell coverage.
Hornstrandir is not for everyone, but for those who seek adventure, solitude, and a deep connection with nature, it offers an experience like no other. This remote and wild corner of Iceland is a place where the landscape is as untamed as it is beautiful, and where every step takes you further from the modern world and closer to the heart of nature. Whether you’re hiking along its rugged trails, camping under the midnight sun, or simply sitting quietly and watching an arctic fox play in the distance, a visit to Hornstrandir is an experience that will stay with you forever.
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